What slovenly figures come trudging down the road? A film of dust covers their ragged clothes and sun-burned skin, a ravenous look of hunger glimmers in their eyes. As their skinny forms approach the general store, cheers erupt from the people sitting on the porch, welcoming those who have completed the desert. Completed the desert. Incredible to think it is over. The days of long water carries and dry heat are no more and will be replaced by a new set of challenges. The elevation in the Sierra’s is a lot more than we’ve had to deal with so far and altitude sickness is a real thing. Bears prowl all around the next section, so it’s mandatory to put food in bear proof canisters at night. Almost every day, we will climb over one of the snowy passes, early enough that the snow hasn’t melted yet by the sun and that no afternoon summer storms have formed in the heights.
But that’s for later, first I have 2 days of rest (aka chores) ahead. Microspikes, food and a bear canister need to be bought, alongside the usual shower and laundry. Things appear to be moving at a glacial pace here, many hikers complaining they’ve been waiting for food for hours. It is also filled with people, so many people. This is the place where multiple bubbles temporarily converge and meet. I can’t count the number of full-bearded, broad-chested men with cowboy hats I’ve seen here, the stereotypical pct look at this point. Gaspard was there though, hadn’t seen him since day 1. We hugged and told our tales since then.
Mash, Lucky Charm and I chilled there for a bit with Wicked Dinger and Guardian, trying to wrap our heads around what we had just done. 702 miles, or a good 1100km, only a part of the trail, yet still a distance hard to wrap our heads around. The desert has hardened us for the miles ahead. Legs no longer getting tired by walking, our only limitation being the amount of food we can carry. Many of us were sick of the desert and more than welcomed the prospect of high mountains and snow (the pool people not the least among them). I enjoyed it all the way through though, it being so different from what I was used to hike in. I had expected more hardships so far, to be honest. This whole trip is mainly just awesome.
We hitched a ride to Grumpy Bear’s retreat, a campground, bar, laundry and shower place all in one. As we got in, I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw two familiar shaggy figures strolling around the campground: Sappy and Dirty Water, the two resident lunatics from the Budpharm. I don’t know how or why they got here, but it certainly wasn’t on foot. In a way I’m glad they’re here, at least now others will soon be able to relate to my experiences back then.
At night, Sappy, obviously high again, tried to offer me candy. ‘Do you remember me, Sappy?’ I asked, ‘I was at the Budpharm a while ago.’
‘Of course I remember you, it was the 5th of May when you were there.’
‘Do you really?’
‘I know who you are, Vincent.’
That settles that I guess.
Now I’m sitting on my bear canister, looking at the stars with Mash and Fits. I couldn’t be happier. I could not be in a better place with better people. All is right with the world.