Muir Pass had an infamous reputation. Several miles before and after the pass, the trail was covered in slushy snow, according to what we’d heard, meaning there would be postholing for a long stretch.
On arrival, none of this turned out to be true. Muir Pass was even my favourite so far. The other passes had been largely snow-free, but here pristine white snowfields blanketed the mountains and alpine lakes glistened in between, sheets of ice floating on their deep blue waters. When I came to Helen Lake, the first of such lakes, I almost cried at the stark beauty of the landscape. The cracks between the ice were just wide enough that they allowed one to peer into the darkness below and wonder what was there. I was ahead of the others and alone. It was glorious.
At the top of the pass was a shelter, dedicated to John Muir himself. Inside I found Rabbit, Comatose and the rest of their group, including the Belgian they wanted me to meet. Let’s just say he’s exactly what I imagined a person carrying a Cara Pils to Canada would be.
The others, being Mash, Lucky Charm, Half ‘n Half, Marble, Merlin, Lavalamp and IPA (the rest of the group has been ahead of us by a couple of miles for 2 days now), trickled in. Solemate and Guardian suddenly entered as well.
I left the hut before the others. Halfway along the first snowfield down my worst nightmare manifested: I had to poop. I’d taken every precaution to go before the pass, not wanting to get stuck in the middle of the snow and the rocks, with no place to hide, but there it was and it wasn’t waiting. Panicked, I rushed for the nearest rock outcropping above the snow. Along the way I dropped my poles, gloves and finally, backpack. Just in time I ducked out of sight of the trail. All part of the experience.
We had dinner on the shore of Evolution Lake, drying our feet and socks (I have the feeling my feet have been wet all day both from wading over river crossings and the snow). We hiked two more miles after, the golden light of the sun darting through the trees. What a day, one of my favourite.
